Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Thoughts as I Eat Pineapple Before My Massage...


Quick entry today – probably a nice break from my long-winded sentimental philosophizing to date. I do have a good hospital story from today, but I’ll wait to write about it later. Besides, it’s still cooking…

Here’s a quick photo taken of our apartment building here in Kampala. Nice taste of how gorgeous the skies are here…. And it shows off my new camera (!), to replace my misplaced beloved Samsung, may it forever rest in peace. Buying a camera in Kampala was one of the more ulcer-provoking activities I’ve partaken in recently, but seems to have worked out so far. At least it hasn’t spontaneously combusted yet.

Some random things:

(1) Turns out that I totally biffed on my phone number earlier – it’s actually (256) 779624422. I think. Still unclear. We’ll see.
(2) The pineapple here is delicious.
(3) For all y’all planning residency interviews, or any other travels, I have a finalized interview schedule (!) and am 100% down for coordinating any hotels, shuttles, extracurricular activities. I’ll be in Seattle from December 8th thru 11th, Portland from December 11th thru 12th, Chicago from December 17th thru 20th, and Ventura on January 8th. Shoot me an email if something coincides with your schedule, or if you wanna come along just because.

[Sorry Elly and Andrew – I bailed on the Boston interview – just couldn’t picture living alone in the suburban boonies in the snow as an intern, without my family or Chicago’s hot dogs to abate my misery, surrounded by insufferable Red Sox fans. You understand.]

Stay posted tomorrow – Dana, Patrick, and I are getting massages tonight at the local country club (um, I know it's tacky, but how can you say no? It’s $10 for an hour! Yes, please.) Excellent photos will ensue, to be sure. And I need to write about the upcoming election – as expected, it’s pretty unique to be experiencing it here. FYI, Obama’s father is from Kisumu, Kenya, which is about 400 km from here. Very cool.

Monday, October 27, 2008

Laundry, Waterfalls, and Mary

It’s Monday afternoon, and I’m watching my clothes dry. This is one of my secret pleasures in life. As I often complain about at full volume, I HATE doing laundry at home. I hate hunting for quarters. I hate hauling my clothes down our sketchy back stairwell, praying it doesn’t collapse as I plummet to my doom. I hate trying to stuff my folded pajamas into my bottom drawer filled to the brim with old Stanford t-shirts and countless pairs of scrubs. I hate doing laundry at home.

But, strangely, I have always loved it while traveling in developing countries. And my favorite part is hanging the clothes up to dry. It forces me to slow down, to think about each article of clothing and its history – my scrub pants from my ob/gyn rotation at the General, my Obama t-shirt that draws so many excited comments here, my gym socks already turned dusty red from Ugandan hiking adventures, my despised white coat that I’m forced to wear every day on the wards here in order to fit in with the immaculately dressed Ugandan medical students. Socks, shirts, pants, skirts, they’re all dancing in the warm equatorial breeze now…. Probably been dry for a while, but I like watching them, and so they stay.

Technically, I’m playing hooky this afternoon, having slipped away after morning rounds with the Infectious Disease team. I need a break. Last week sucked me dry, emotionally, brought to a morbid finale on Friday morning. For those who aren’t familiar with the medical student gig, we spend the last two years of medical school exclusively in clinical settings, where we are assigned individual patients for whom we are responsible. We conduct the initial interview and physical exam, order diagnostic studies, choose treatment regimens, and then follow throughout their hospitalization to assess progress and make any necessary diagnostic or therapeutic adjustments. Here in Kampala, this responsibility is taken to the extreme – thus far, I am often the only person to examine a patient, to read their X-rays, to order their treatment, to discuss their care with their family members. And so, it was natural for Mary’s cousin to seek me out on Friday morning, grabbing my arm as I walked onto the ward, stating, “Doctor, my patient’s breathing is different.”

Mary is a 35 year old woman* who had suffered a massive hemorrhagic stroke 3 weeks prior, thought to be due to a protozoal brain infection, the end-stage result of her undiagnosed HIV infection. She was neurologically devastated from the stroke, unable to speak, paralyzed on her right side, but had been relatively stable throughout the week. In fact, I was already broaching the idea of discharge, brainstorming some kind of homemade physical therapy to maximize her recovery at home. Hard to believe now… (for obvious reasons, I changed Mary's name here)

I am not a doctor. The scary truth is that I’m pretty darn close, but I’m still years away from anything resembling expertise on anything. There are days when my cat knows more about medicine than I do. But somewhere over the past 18 months, I am grateful to have somehow developed what is arguably the most important skill a physician can have – knowing when to worry. I took one look at Mary, and my stomach dropped to the floor. She was breathing at twice the normal rate, clutching her sheet, pleading to me with her eyes, still unable to speak. Shaking, I took off my stethoscope, listened to her lungs, clear. Listened to her heart, racing. Took her pulse, barely palpable. Shit.

I ran to the next room, scanning each bedside for my resident. Nowhere. I finally found our intern, kneeling on the floor next to a new patient shaking with chills from malaria. I grabbed his arm, pulling him to my patient’s bedside, telling him everything I had just found, sharing that I was afraid that she had a pulmonary embolism – a dreaded blood clot in the lung vessels that can quickly kill patients. My intern looked at the patient with wide eyes, listened to her lungs, said something in Luganda to her attendant, and walked back to his malaria patient. I interrupted him again, assuming he disagreed with my analysis, praying that I was just being a paranoid medical student, and that my patient was fine. Instead, he looked at me and said, “No, you might be right. We can order a chest x-ray if you’d like, but she could die on the way down there. And I don’t know if they have the money for it, anyway.”

I’ve never seen someone die. I know that seems odd, but most medical students haven’t. The truth is, we’re pretty good at “controlling” death in the US. Patients die at home, in nursing homes, in ICUs after months on a ventilator. They don’t die at age 35 of reversible conditions brought on by treatable diseases, with only a medical student at the bedside. But my Mary did. Slowly, as the morning stretched on, while I frantically scanned the hallways for any attending physician who would suggest some alternate therapy, Mary grew tired. Her eyes glazed. Her breathing slowed. Her brother David pleaded with me, “Isn’t there anything you can do? Can’t you call the neurosurgeons?” I looked at Mary, and said aloud what I was only just realizing – “We don’t have the time. She is dying.” A few moments later, Mary took one last, gasping breath, like every movie you’ve ever seen. And then she just didn’t take another. Some dusty part of my brain remembered what to do: I shined my light in her eyes, no pupillary response; listened to her heart, nothing. And nothing. And nothing. I knew what that meant, but could not find the words. I looked into the kind eyes of her brother, and found myself as mute as Mary had been. Finally, I met the eyes of the Dutch medical student standing with me, and nodded to him. He put his hand on David’s shoulder and said simply, “I’m so sorry, sir. She is dead.”

I didn’t mean to write about this today. I planned to write about my weekend adventures in Sipi Falls on the Kenyan border with Dana and Patrick, fun travel stories about losing my camera, crazy matatu rides, watching my friends repel down waterfalls, the most amazing hike of my life. And I’m sure that’s what most people would rather read about. But Mary has been on my mind. I never heard her voice, never met her children, never shook her hand. But she had one of those faces you remember, that seemed familiar as soon as I met her. It was good to get away this weekend, to distract myself, laugh with good friends, old and new, hike in the pouring rain, stand meters away from the most powerful waterfall I’ve ever seen, struggling to stand against the wind and spray that drenched me to my core, marveling at the primal beauty of this land. But beneath it all was Mary. I pray for her family, and that she has found peace. And I pray for a world that would not tolerate the death of someone so young. She deserved more.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

In Mulago

It’s funny how quickly your perception of a place can change. I smile to read back over my entry from just four days ago – it oozes with that syrupy giddiness unique to travelers in a new land. I see Kampala so differently now. What a difference a few days on an African AIDS ward can make.

To be honest, I feel too deeply entrenched in the experience of my hospital work to adequately reflect on it now. Suffice to say, it is haltingly sobering, and instructive in something that I can’t even begin to understand yet. I feel so old, so tired, and almost nauseated at the idea of going back again tomorrow, seeing the same patients, watching them die. But despite the overwhelming despair, I know that this is a good place for me to be; I am already a better doctor for being here. I am left again reminded of why I love my profession – we are privileged with a front seat on all of the greatest human experiences, the most profound joys, the deepest suffering.

And so, given that I’m still rather paralyzed by it all, I’ll stick to data reporting for now rather than any kind of analysis… med students are good at that approach, anyway. I’m working at Mulago Hospital on the women’s Infectious Disease Ward, which translates here into the AIDS Ward, although you’ll never see the terms “HIV” or “AIDS” written on a chart – they call it “ISS” here for “Immune Susceptibility Syndrome” out of concern for stigma/discrimination. Most of my patients are discovering their HIV status only upon presenting to the hospital with opportunistic infections characteristic of end-stage AIDS: cryptococcal meningitis, disseminated tuberculosis, neurotoxoplasmosis. For medical folks, the highest CD4 count that I’ve seen has been 180 – the majority fall closer to the teens/20s. These patients are so sick.

Patient care is structured so differently here – almost all traditional nursing duties are taken on by the patient’s “attendant”, who is usually her mother, sibling, cousin. And there is no social contracting for the sick here – you are responsible for paying for your health care, end of story. As we round each morning, we hand the patient’s attendant a list of labs, studies, medications that we are ordering for the day. The attendant is then responsible for finding the money, going to the pharmacy, going to the lab, wheeling the patient to the x-ray machine, cleaning the patient’s bedpan, washing the bedsheets. Nurses perform very limited duties – mainly limited to pushing IV doses, which the patient’s family has purchased and brought to the bedside. To be honest, the family role feels almost appropriate at times – at home, we distance ourselves from sick loved ones with layers of nurses, nursing aids, physical therapists. Here, your family truly cares for you, which at its best feels loving and right. But there is a dark side to this system, seen in patients without attendants who are left on their own, with no one to pay for their treatment or assist with their nursing needs. These are often women whose husbands have died, whose families have condemned them, or whose partners have abandoned them. They lie alone on their sheetless beds, with our neatly written order sheets left unfilled by their feet. They haunt me.

And there I go, reflecting without being ready. I promise that every entry won’t be quite so gloomy – at the very least, I’ll be traveling throughout Uganda and Kenya during the weekends, and should be able to come up with some good lion stories. I almost feel like it isn’t fair to Uganda that I delved so quickly into its troubles…. I know that there is much more to this country than its AIDS epidemic. And so I push through the week, rolling with the punches, and finding meaning in the raw education here. It’s a blessing and privilege to be here, and I already treasure the weeks to come.

I miss you all, and thank you for reading my musings. I am so lucky to have you all as my attendants.

Arrival Email


[email written to my family upon arrival on October 18th -- sorry for the repeat, guys]

I am so glad I decided to bring my laptop.... our internet is slower than dirt, but I'm typing this sitting on my bed in Kampala, which is so much better than sitting in some hot dirty internet cafe, getting charged by the minute for the slowest connection imaginable. Instead, I'm listening to the radio, eating pineapple, and taking mini-naps whenever I try to send/receive something. It's lovely. And crazy to think back to just ten years ago, when I was in Ecuador and had to send snail mail or tolerate hideous phone delays to communicate with you guys. It's a brave new world.

Today was a good day. I woke from the deepest sleep of my life, only to be informed by Dana that my alarm had been going off for two hours. Hmmm. Hopefully that doesn't happen tomorrow morning when I have to go work. Anyway, we made ourselves a delicious fruit salad from the pineapple, papaya, passion fruit, and bananas that we bought in the outdoor market last night, and watched some Aljazeera. Then Dana took me out to teach me how to use the matatus, which are the East African version of a taxi -- I'll be taking these pretty much everywhere to get around, and you have to be pretty savvy to figure out how to flag one down, get where you want to go, figure out how much to pay, etc. I survived our first trip, and am gearing up for our second adventure this evening, when we're heading downtown to get some Indian food to celebrate my arrival.

I love it here, and feel completely at home now only 24 hours into my stay. You know me -- I had my room set up and pretty within hours of arriving. The apartment is shockingly comfortable, as you can probably tell from the photos. This is definitely a new kind of developing-world-travel for me -- paying the extra cash for a comfortable place, cooking for myself, wireless internet -- and I like it. Even though the laptop occasionally sends tiny electrical shocks up my arms..... a small price to pay.

And Uganda is just breathtaking. I love all of the colors -- the hills are deep deep green dotted by violet jacarandas and red-roofed huts, the sky is crystal clear blue with huge billowing white clouds that periodically turn deep black, dump rain onto the red dirt for an hour, and then disappear. The people are beautiful, wearing bright colors and carrying their infants wrapped around their waists with long cloth, with quick smiles and gentle mannerisms. And you should smell the air.... oh it's so wonderful. Who would think that the smell of burning banana leaves would forever catch my heart.... it whisks me back 11 years, and I'm fifteen again, standing on our front stoop in Ecuador, inhaling the thick evening air laced with coffee and jasmine and sweat and bananas. Our dry California air is a blessing, but we miss out on the smells.

Ok, time for dinner, but one more thing: I got a cell phone today! I know, this seems nuts, but everyone has one here and they're dirt cheap (we're talking $10 for the whole shabang). To call me in Uganda, dial 256 (Ugandan country code) and then 77960244226. This is cheapest to do if you guys buy one of those uber-cheap Costco international phone cards -- it's insanely expensive for me to call you, but I may call from time to time and ask you to call me right back, once you guys find a card. I think evenings will probably be best for me (first thing in the morning for you guys -- we're 10 hours ahead of Pacific Time). Let me know how finding a card goes.

First day of work tomorrow -- can't wait! I'll write again soon, and tell all.

Love you so much -- give kisses to my Boo,
Kali

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Heading Out


I'm having a good day.

It was just two days ago when I was sitting enjoying some delicious late afternoon beers with my good friend Brian, lamenting that I wish there was a way to share my upcoming Uganda adventures with all of my friends and families in some coherent, stylish way that also featured photos, songs, etc. It was at this time that our brillant Brian asked, "why don't you start a blog?" A what? And so that is how, all in the course of the past 24 hours, I accomplished the following:
(1) Learned what a blog is
(2) Found out that you can write these things for FREE
(3) Started my own

Of course, the best laid plans of mice and men..... lord knows if I'll even end up having any internet access in Kampala. Not highly likely. But still, I create this blog in good faith. At the very least, I have something to distract me while I count the now less than 24 hours until I get on my plane....

Gotta love those pre-travel jitters.